Monday, November 8, 2010

Another message!

Hello everyone!  I'm so excited to be connected and to write a second message.  The last message was written with speed and few minutes but I have a little time today which is very nice.  So much to tell about our journey!  We have been living in Kamakwie for about 6 weeks now.  I equate leaving Portland and coming to this remote part of Africa for us as somewhat like leaving the gravitational pull of the first it seemed like we needed incredible force and power to set up our lives in such a way as to go, just go with the family.  At times over the past few months Peter and I were worn down by the details and what seemed like a constant flow of information pulling us back to home and making it a crazy idea to go!  We felt this way on the journey too.  We brought a lot of medical supplies in many bags and as many of you know we usually pride ourselves on packing light.  When we got to the airport several of our bags were overweight and we could not change the weight.  We gave the ticket agents our best smiles and stories about where to go with the boys chiming in as well with their charming and sweetly naive comments "if we leave the medical things here how will it help people in Africa?" The agents smiled and let us through!  Many flights to Chicago, then London, then Freetown but the plane in London broke before loading, a second smaller plane pulled up...again the boys "mommy look how cool it is they are changing that really flat tire on our new plane!" Our new plane much smaller than the original had to stop once somewhat unplanned in Southern Spain before continuing to Freetown.  We arrived in the airport and it seemed to us a situation from a movie only we were in it!  After more than 36 hours of travel we arrived late, very late and were scheduled to take a Pelican Fast Ferry across the water (about 1 hour ride) to meet someone from the Wesleyan Church who would be taking us to an expensive hotel for the night...We were on our own to get ourselves and our stuff through customs and onto this private ferry.  Instead we joined a movie plot.  While waiting in an enormous line Jordan tugs at our sleeve saying he thinks he saw a guy in a crowd with a cardboard PETER MAHR sign.  Of course we don't believe Jordan as the crowd outside customs is giant and we know no one is meeting us at the airport which is on a peninsula several hours by car from Freetown.  But Jordan persists, "I just saw him again" he mutters, we look out, sure enough we wave to this random guy holding our name.  He pushes his way through 50 feet of line to us and grabs our arms and takes us to the front, into a glass room where a man looks at our passports and visas and stamps them loudly.  We are then led to immunization booth again stamped, then baggage each time ahead of giant lines of people.  At baggage we point and he and his friends swoop up our bags which keep coming out more and more of them!  We have no idea who these guys are but they are insistent.  They load us and lead us around aggressively.  We follow like sheep. We clear customs without them even considering looking inside our bags.  Peter asks the guy who he is with? The church? "A lady has come to collect you."  Turns out it is Tiggikay who is the aunt of Fodey who lives in Freetown.  Fodey is Peter's teammate in Portland on his soccer team.  We told Fodey about our trip and he said he would try to call his family but that never seemed to work out.  We met Tiggikay outside the airport, incredibly nice woman with two SUV's to load all of our stuff and go to the ordinary ferry more than 30mins from the airport.  We ended up staying at their apartment in Freetown.  We arrived after 2am after much ferrying and driving. The street was empty and we went upstairs and slept in Tiggikay's room under our mosquito net we all collapsed for the night.  At about 5am we heard the Muslim call to prayer on a loud speaker near our ears, by 8am we heard something like a crowd at a stadium.  Sleepy, we emerged and went out to the balcony.  Our road Fobah Rd. is the central market in Freetown and over 1000 people gathered below us outside buying and selling. Philip's drawing in his journal of this scene is amazing.  It was really crazy.  This family was so kind to us, taking us out, changing our money, setting up our cell phone and also buying us tickets for the national team match the next night Sierra Leone vs. South Africa.  This is another post as the story of the tickets and seeing the football match was another movie scene all together.  We called the church with Tiggikay's phone and notified we were safe and would meet the next day!  So that is Freetown really hard to describe.  Bustling, busy, colorful, desperate,  disorganized, but a place where it seemed nearly anything was available if you knew where to go.  Now we live in the opposite of Freetown.  We are here in Kamakwie.  The landscape is like something you would imagine if you think about dinosaur times. Huge palm trees, ferns, green, lush and overgrowing.  Our escape from the forces of gravity to Portland is now complete and it seems we are now floating here in Kamakwie. Our typical day starts around 7am, up and breakfast and walk the boys to school.  Then Peter and I go to the hospital for work until about noon. The hospital work is very challenging and different from our other world.  At lunch the boys meet us at the hospital and we take lunch at home. In the afternoon either Peter or I teach the boys and one person goes back to the hospital.  We have a small house with a few lights working off a car battery, regular electricity is by generator for a few hours in the morning and evening or if surgery is needed at the hospital. People are very very friendly and we are taking Krio lessons to learn to speak with them.  There are other local languages but Krio is pretty popular.  I am impressed with the beauty of the people, they dress in very bright colors, often stark white shirts which they wash by hand and use an iron from the fire to press.  Top diagnoses at the hospital are typhoid fever, malaria, worms of many types-tape, pin, hook, whip, schistosomiasis, TB, HIV, onchoceriasis, many infections with staph, cutaneous anthrax, gas gangrene that kind of thing...We feel very needed, appreciated and useful.  Much to Peter's joking about Internal Medicine we have very few tests to order but seem to be figuring it out with the help of the other doctors.  We are already treating the wards on our own and doing some outside projects.  We have become big birders as a family and have seen more than 12 species of amazing colorful birds.  We bought 4 bicycles and have been cycling, jogging and visiting many nearby villages.  That is all I have time for at this point-we send our love and good wishes to everyone and will write more when we can. We are 5 hours by dirt 4x4road from Makeni which is 3 hours by paved road from Freetown.  We have no mail service and electricity makes email not that practical!  I will keep updates by this post. We are planning a vacation in 2 weeks to the ocean beaches near Freetown! 


  1. Hi Lynda and Peter and the boys - we are happy in your house here in portland! Angus loves all the boys' books and Bendigo loves rolling around in the basement carpet. It was good to read your updates. We think of you often.- katie

  2. Hi Peter, Lynda, Jordan, Phillip,
    we are very happy to hear that you survived : ) the first phase. Probably most difficult one.
    Anyway, please send us your address so we can mail you something.

    Take care,
    Vrata, Jana, Veronika

  3. Hi Pete, Lyn, Jordan & Philip, How fantastic! So happy to hear that you are well, healthy, and immersed. We are thinking of you and telling stories to Izabel & Aidan (and Mattias) about your travels. Be safe and ejoy.
    Topher & Veronika

  4. WOW!!! Thanks for sharing your incredible adventures---sounds like you had an amazing, unforgettable experience in Sierre Leone!!
    Be safe---and ENJOY!!!
    Kim Hart-Baldridge